Hooray! First make out of Tilly’s book, “Love at First Stitch”.
(Please excuse poor lipstick choice and wet hair)
I seem to have a terrible habit of adding work for myself. Quick make you say? Nah… I’ll fully line it with terrible fraytastic stash left overs. And add a lot of sequins. And horsehair braid. And hand pick and bead the zipper.
Actually, I really like hand sewing in front of Netflix box sets, so adding bazillions of bling to a project legitimises my Orange is The New Black habit. Also, this dress is functioning as a last hoorah before my sewing clobber gets packed up and shipped to Singapore – so a blingy sampler of all things spangly and over complicated it is then.
The fabric is a Cotton Sateen from Abakhan fabrics on Oldham Road in Manchester. It was some ridiculous price – £2.30 a metre if memory serves. The genius thing is that it’s left over fabric from my flower girls’ dresses. This dress is actually FREE! And I still have enough to do the Delphine skirt that also features in this book. Gadzooks! Naughty Butterick and their profligate pattern layouts….
One of my flower girls.
I don’t know what the DICKENS I did when I traced/cut the pattern, but I found that the skirt part came up too small against the bodice. I unpicked the seams and redid them with a 1cm seam allowance. Obviously the same issue happened with the lining, and I really couldn’t face another wrestlemania with it, so I took it to the bin and threw it inside, feeling guilty all the while and expecting to set off loud “alert here’s a lazy wasteful sewist” type alarm. Fully lined had now become bodice lined. Here’s a useful post by the ladies over at By Hand London on how to line a bodice with sleeves. When I tried it on before putting the zip in, it came up a bit big, so I did a 2cm seam. Weird operator error at work I think, and it’s frustrating because I can’t work out where the mistake came in and now the seams don’t all match up. Boo.
But look at that hand picked zipper! I love it! Worth the 2 episodes of Nurse Jackie….. I seem to have a bit of a hybrid way of putting in zips that uses a machine and hand finishing. When I am feeling braver about all of this blogging shenanigans, I’ll put my head above the parapet and do a tutorial. Here’s what gave me the idea about the added sequins in the first place.
I felt like the hem could do with a bit of extra oomph in this fabric so I added a horse hair braid. This is totally my favourite way of finishing a hem – it’s fast and precise and the horsehair does the hard work for you. Here’s a neat tutorial form Gertie. Rather than top stitch it, I blind stitched the hem by hand, because I am obsessed with invisible hems and I needed to watch some Netflix.
I stumbled across this tutorial form A Pair and a Spare on how to add large sequins to a neckline. I sewed them on before I attached the lining to the inside of the dress, so the lining protects the stitching behind the sequins. I also added some to the hem, to give it a “Itinerant Fortune Teller’s” look. Mega – I like the way they rattle slightly when I run for the bus. Not in those shoes, obviously. They are strictly for sitting down engagements.